In this special episode of Textile Talk, we’re joined by two of the most insightful voices in contemporary embroidery. Robert Ossant and Jessica Pile. Between them, they’ve shaped how the world sees couture embroidery, blending its centuries-old craftsmanship with the artistry, innovation and storytelling of modern fashion.
Their new book, The Art of Couture Embroidery (published by Batsford), has already been hailed as a landmark celebration of this fine art form. Together, Robert and Jess open up the doors to a world where embroidery is not merely a decorative flourish, but a language of history, identity and imagination.
In this episode, we talk to the pair about their creative partnership, their shared passion for craftsmanship, and how they set out to demystify couture embroidery for a new generation of stitchers and fashion enthusiasts. They also discuss the art of working together, the politics and heritage behind haute couture, and how technology and tradition are reshaping embroidery’s future.
Read on to find out how you can win a signed copy of her latest book.
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Jessica Pile & Robert Ossant
Textile Talk with Jessica Pile and Robert Ossant
Listen to the episode on your favourite podcast platform or click the link below to listen now.
A Partnership Stitched in Friendship and Expertise
Robert and Jess first met at Hand & Lock, the 258-year-old embroidery atelier in London known for its fine craftsmanship and royal commissions. What began as a professional connection soon turned into a deep friendship and shared creative vision.
Jessica, a costume construction graduate and technical embroidery specialist, became Managing Director of Hand & Lock at just 27 – the youngest in its history. During her twelve-year tenure, she revitalised the Hand & Lock Embroidery School and helped transform its annual embroidery competition into an internationally recognised event.
Robert, meanwhile, joined the atelier as Communications Manager, bringing his background in journalism and fashion history to the mix. His writing, informed by an academic understanding of art and cultural history, added a new intellectual lens to embroidery – one that explored its place in design, heritage and storytelling.
Together, they found a rare creative balance. As Robert explains in the episode, “We realised we were at opposite ends of a spectrum – Jess with the technical mastery of embroidery, and me with the historical and cultural context. Together we could tell a fuller story.”
Zooming In: The Concept behind The Art of Couture Embroidery
That idea of “zooming in” became the conceptual backbone of The Art of Couture Embroidery. Each chapter journeys from the sweeping histories of the world’s great fashion houses right down to the intricate techniques that bring their designs to life.
Robert explores the lineage of couture. From Christian Dior’s post-war romanticism to the boundary-pushing narratives of Alexander McQueen. Meanwhile, Jess decodes the physical making: the threads, beads, frames and fine details that elevate embroidery to art.
The result is a book that feels both academic and tactile, bridging scholarship and studio practice. It’s as much about appreciating couture’s place in cultural history as it is about empowering readers to understand how a single stitch can change the structure, weight and movement of a garment.
Defining Couture Embroidery
For Jessica, couture embroidery represents the highest expression of craftsmanship, “the point where design, time and artistry meet.” Every couture piece is entirely bespoke, made by hand, and often the result of hundreds of hours of work by artisans and embroiderers across the world.
Robert adds that it’s also a mirror of European history. “When you study couture embroidery, you’re not just looking at fashion. You’re seeing how Europe has evolved. Including, socially, politically, artistically over the last 160 years. It’s a living archive of our cultural story.”
Their shared approach in the book, as well as in this conversation, shows just how much embroidery reveals about who we are, and what we value. Every sequin and stitch tells a story of patience, skill and heritage.
Win a FREE Signed Copy
Simply, subscribe to receive our newsletter. Existing subscribers may apply and Entries close on 10th December.
Competition open to UK residents only. Prizes can only be posted to a UK address.
Inside the Atelier: The Hidden Lives of Gowns
Listen to the pair discussing what happens to couture gowns once they leave the catwalk. These aren’t dresses designed for daily wear; they’re artistic statements, ambassadors for creativity, and walking advertisements for the brands that make them.
Most couture pieces are loaned out to celebrities for red-carpet events or housed in archives and museums. As Robert notes, they’re “the concept cars of fashion”. They’re built to inspire and push boundaries rather than serve everyday function.
Yet understanding how these pieces come together deepens our appreciation for the artistry behind them. When you consider that a single gown might take hundreds of hours and cost upwards of a million pounds, you begin to see couture not as luxury, but as labour. The collective vision of dozens of skilled hands.
Preserving Heritage, Embracing Innovation
One of the most captivating parts of the discussion is how couture balances heritage with innovation. Both Robert and Jess are deeply respectful of traditional handcraft, yet they’re fascinated by how new technologies and materials are shaping its future.
Robert highlights how AI and digital design tools are already influencing embroidery, allowing designers to visualise how a fabric might move or shimmer before it’s ever stitched. While both acknowledge the potential risks to craftsmanship, they also see opportunities for innovation and sustainability.
Jessica points to material experimentation as another frontier; from upcycled fabrics to LED-infused textiles. She makes the point that the oldest of crafts continues to evolve in thrilling new ways.
A Global Language of Stitch
The episode also explores how embroidery traditions differ around the world. Robert praises France’s long-standing commitment to safeguarding its ateliers, while Jessica draws attention to the extraordinary artistry emerging from India, where techniques like Ari work – similar to European tambour beading – underpin much of the fashion industry’s embroidery today.
By including Ari alongside tambour techniques in their book, the authors honour embroidery’s global lineage and celebrate the cross-cultural exchange that keeps it alive. As Jess explains, “It’s a nod to say that while tambour beading is considered the haute couture technique, Ari is actually the backbone of much of modern fashion embroidery.”
What They Hope Readers Will Take Away
At the heart of the book and this podcast is a simple desire: to help people truly understand embroidery.
Jessica hopes readers will come away with “a deeper appreciation for how embroidery works – what you’re seeing when you look at a piece, and how it’s achieved.” Robert adds that he wants readers to “see art and fashion differently, and to find confidence in their own creative instincts.”
Together, they remind us that embroidery is more than thread and fabric – it’s storytelling in its most intimate, tactile form.
What’s Next for Robert and Jess
Both are continuing to weave new threads into their creative paths.
Jessica now runs Norika Studios and House of Norika, creating bespoke embroidery and interior design projects with her sister, while Robert continues to write about fashion and culture from his home in France, contributing to publications such as Vogue, Forbes and Selvedge.
And yes, they both hint that another collaborative book might be on the horizon – a continuation of their mission to make embroidery not just seen, but understood.
Listen Now
To hear the full conversation with Robert Ossant and Jessica Pile, tune in to this episode of Textile Talk – available now on all major podcast platforms.
Discover the artistry, history and human stories behind The Art of Couture Embroidery, and step inside the world where fashion, craft and fine art collide.
